Finishes - Part III - Other Finishes
I am not going to try to cover every wood finish known to man. Suffice
it to say that just about any product that is used to finish wood can be
used on arrows, some are just better than others. Two of the more popular
non-lacquer finishes are polyurethane and the new water-based finishes
One of the good things about these finishes is that you can buy them
at about any hardware or paint store.
Polyurethane will provide a very hard, durable finish. You can apply
it by dipping just as you would with the lacquers. It does take longer
to dry between coats than most of the lacquers. Do not mix lacquer and
polyurethane. If you want to crest your arrow and then apply a polyurethane
coat over the top of it, I would suggest using Testor's model paint and
then letting it dry for a day or two and then applying the polyurethane
over the top, or you can also spray a coat or two over the crest with the
same brand polyurethane in a spray version. With polyurethane finishes,
use Duco cement for gluing nocks and feathers. Do NOT use Fletch-tite,
as it will not stick.
Just recently I have had the opportunity to use a water-based clear
finish (Minwax Polycrylic). The really nice thing about this finish
is that it cleans up with water. When you first dip it, it has a milky
look, but don't worry it will dry clear. It does take a while to dry.
I let it dry overnight between coats and gave it a quick hit with #000
steel wool between coats. I woud use the same method for cresting as
mentioned for the polyurethane finish. Again use Duco cement.
If you want to try other kinds of finishes, experiment on an old shaft
first. Ask others on the Leatherwall what their experience has been.
I would guess that just about every finish has been tried by the various
contributors on The Wall and they are always willing to share their knowledge